Rangin Kimia polyurethane paints are formulated and produced based on high-quality raw materials of European companies with a variety of uses for all customers and tastes, according to the variety of work in the furniture industry and the wishes of our dear customers, a menu has been prepared with these products. It is necessary to know and apply a few points before using the product:

1) Patinating:

Patinate is a product of bitumen and other petroleum compounds that are used for shadowing and scratching on the work, and they contain greasy compounds such as paraffin, which even when the patinate is completely dry on the work, it will not have any stickiness between the layers and will even cause the final paint layer to peel off. Therefore, always mix patinate with oil varnish or other oil paints at a ratio of 4 kilos of patinate with half to one kilo of varnish or oil paint until deep drying and its stickiness on the work surface and finally, semi-polyester and polyurethane clear, to guarantee the final result. It is necessary to know that you must observe at least 8 hours of deep drying time for shade work and patina work at the optimal temperature.

2) Sealer and clear sanding work:

It has been observed that some masters, after patinating work with patinate, for faster work, they cover it with a thin layer of thin instant sealer until it dries so that they can quickly apply the final half-polyester or clear polyurethane, this action will definitely cause the clear to peel or burn or crack from the bottom. To solve this problem, you must always observe the deep drying time of the patina, and on the other hand, Instant sealer is naturally dry and brittle and make sure that 70% sealer must be mixed with 30% instant clear in order to improve its inter-layer stickiness (especially on gold sheet and golden wreath)  and after drying and deep hardening, semi-polyester and polyurethane can be applied.

3) Gold and silver sheet working

In this work, all the layers from the priming to the final clear layer should be completely dry and hard, the priming under the work should not be too peeling or hollow because it means that the work we did is flimsy, Before the sheet working, semi-glossy polyester or standing polyester should be applied and completely dried without becoming brittle and flimsy, and alcohol varnish is used to prevent the slippery surface, and after the alcohol varnish is completely dry, Use a special water-based glue. Allow the glue to set a little and apply the sheet, allow the sheet glue to evaporate and harden for at least 6 hours, especially in cold weather, then be sure to apply rubbing alcohol to prevent the penetration of the thinners of the next layer, to prevent the sheet from destroying the glue, one of the signs of the quality of the sheet stickiness is that after 6 hours by hitting the sheet with a nail, you will reach a hard and glassy layer that absorbs the sheet well.  It is wet and does not crack with a nail touching it.

4) Resistance to light and yellowness:

Light resistance depends on the formula of resin and hardener in polyurethane paints, and the type of bottom layer used on the work piece. If the undercoat is semi-polyester, we will definitely have yellowing because semi-polyesters are not resistant to sunlight.  In some polyurethane products, according to the type of hardener and resin used in the polyurethane paint and clear formula, it is mentioned for what type of paint and underlayment they should be used, and how many years their light resistance against yellowing will be, in general, each product  which had the word (acrylic) means it will be resistant to indoor light and sunlight from at least 5 years (acrylic matte clears) to up to 20 years (acrylic glossy clears).

Of course, you should know that acrylic polyurethane paints, which include “21 car” paints, always harden later and their skin doesn’t have the ability to get polished, and their transparency and light resistance are more important.

In other polyurethane products, resistance to direct sunlight will be about 2 months and resistance to indoor light will be 5 to 8 years.

These products dry faster and look very transparent and thicker, and also after 24 hours of spraying, they become very hard and ceramic and anti-scratch (in cold air, 32 hours after spraying) and their skin will  have glossiness and great ability to get polished.

5) Instant thinners and polyurethane

Instant thinners from 10,000 to 30,000 all have amounts of methanol and butanol alcohol, which are necessary to open instant and semi-polyester paints, but these alcohols will prevent hardening in polyurethane paints. In this way, alcohols react with its hardener much faster than clear resin or polyurethane paint and the hardener will rot, and as a result, the paint or clear will always remain sticky and cracking by nail, or after being stick to nylon or cellophane. In general, polyurethane thinner must be free of alcohols and methyl acetate solvent, so always use the polyurethane thinner of the same company that manufactures the product.

6) Combination of polyurethane paint and clear with hardener

According to the company’s instructions, the ratio of paint and hardener should always be observed, and a hardener less than that ratio will cause deep drying and decrease the hardness of the paint. In cold weather, hardener can be added only 10% more, and it is better to mix paint and hardener.  Prepare according to the amount of consumption for the first half hour of work so that the drying and hardening of the paint is guaranteed, the longer the mixing time of the two components passes, because the hardener is reacting, it will make the upper layer weaker in terms of drying and hardening. Or it will be polished later. Try not to apply more than three layers, because the drying of polyurethane is not only air-dry but also chemical and depends on the thickness of the spray, and most importantly, never leave more than ten minutes between each spray, let all the layers dry and become hard together at once.